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In 1895, at age fifty-nine, Clemens began a "lecturing raid around the world" to pay off his substantial debts. The failure of the Paige typesetting machine, followed by the bankruptcy of his publishing firm, obliged him to "mount the platform next fall or starve." Traveling with his wife, Olivia, and daughter Clara, he opened the tour in Cleveland on 15 July 1895, then traveled across the United States and Canada before sailing on 23 August from Victoria, B.C., for Australia and thence to New Zealand, India, Ceylon, Mauritius, and South Africa, returning to England in July 1896, after a year's journey.
Clemens's reception in Australia confirmed that he had "established himself in the affections of millions of the English-speaking race in all climes in a way that no other living writer has managed to do," as the Melbourne Australasian claimed. After a grueling tour of more than twenty cities in Australia and New Zealand, the Clemenses embarked in early January for India.
Notebook entry about profanity, and a joke from Olivia
11 January 1896
The notebooks that Clemens used throughout his tour provided him with material for Following the Equator, written in London during the next year. Some notebook entries, however, were not intended for literary use. Here he describes an amusing incident on board the Oceana, which illustrates Olivia's sense of humor.
Swore off from profanity early this morningI was on deck in the peaceful dawn. . . . Went down, dressed, bathed, put on white linen, shaveda long, hot, troublesome job, & no profanity. Then started to breakfast. Remembered my tonic. . . poured it in measuring glass, held bottle in one hand, it in the other, the cork in my teethreached up & got a tumblermeasuring glass sprang out of my fingersgot it, poured another dose, first setting the tumbler on washstandjust got it poured, ship lurched, heard a crash behind meit was the tumbler, broken into millions of fragments, but the bottom hunk wholepicked it up to throw out of the open port, threw out the measuring glass insteadthen I released my voice. Mrs. C. behind me in the door: "Don't reform any more, it is not an improvement."
After ten days of sightseeing and three lecture appearances in Bombay, the Clemenses began an extended tour of Indian cities which took them twelve hundred miles by train across the country to Calcutta, then north to Darjeeling, Delhi, and Lahore, and back again to Calcutta. They all found the country fascinating. Clemens wrote in Following the Equator that the Indians were "the most interesting people in the worldand the nearest to being incomprehensible . . . Their character and their history, their customs and their religion, confront you with riddles at every turnriddles which are a trifle more perplexing after they are explained than they were before."
"What kind of a servant is it you want, sor?"
The word Maid had slipped out of his mind for the moment, but he remembered a word which meant the same thing & would answer:
"I want a virgin."
"You want a what?"
"A virgin. Are you a virgin? You do not look like a virgin."
He is better this morning, but it is thought that he will not get well. But to return to Allahabad.
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